If I were young and raised in Hawaii, I think I would have loved to be a surfer. In my older years, seeing the size of some of these waves – no thank you.
But there’s still a beauty in the surfers and their relationships with their waves.
Enjoy.
3 comments:
Anonymous
said...
When I went to school in San Diego, I tried to become one with the board and the wave, but they both had their way with me. So I tried to body surf..I wasn't bad and have the scars to prove it..But in the midst of the wave, with all its power and all its total control I first realized there were things much bigger than myself in the universe..and that we could get along as long as I recognized who was boss..that was one great video..
I think you should still try surfing on small waves. We have had a lot of fun when we were in Mexico on baby waves with a foam board. Very safe and fairly doable. My sister claims goofy feet surfing in Lahaina is a great place to learn from as well. They teach on a real small break there.
3 comments:
When I went to school in San Diego, I tried to become one with the board and the wave, but they both had their way with me. So I tried to body surf..I wasn't bad and have the scars to prove it..But in the midst of the wave, with all its power and all its total control I first realized there were things much bigger than myself in the universe..and that we could get along as long as I recognized who was boss..that was one great video..
I think you should still try surfing on small waves. We have had a lot of fun when we were in Mexico on baby waves with a foam board. Very safe and fairly doable. My sister claims goofy feet surfing in Lahaina is a great place to learn from as well. They teach on a real small break there.
Incredible seascapes Dan. A great video too.
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